Sanding Your Projects

[Dave]

I don't want to tie up the board with a long post, but I have come up with a way to sand the projects I make that has cut my sanding time by at least 75%. If anyone is interested, feel free to e mail me and I will send you the info on how I sand all my pieces, large or small.
Dave

[Admin]

email it to me and I'll put it online as an article.

Thanks,
Dean
webmaster@woodworkingcrafts.com


added 10/17/2003
Here's Dave's sanding tips article (http://www.woodworkingcrafts.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=5)

[DayDr]

This could be a big time saver......its a chore !

[scroller_aus]

I got myself a mouse sander the other day, works quite well, did a good job and left a smooth finish. The pack I got had paper to 180, but will make up some finer papers as you suggested
Brett

[bmwbob]

After years of scrollsaw project sanding, I came up with idea.

My Project Sander (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bmwbob1/vwp?.dir=/Sander&.dnm=Sander+1.jpg&.view=t)

An old Ryobi 1/2 sheet, ROS, Some router pad and a wood vise.

BTW, had to use the pad 'cause all my stuff was ending up on the floor.

Still use the old PC344 but couldn/ use for these:

Scroller, LTD 3D Ornaments (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bmwbob1/vwp?.dir=/Bob%27s+Album&.dnm=Butterfly.jpg&.view=t)

Bob

[bmwbob]

The velour idea is great! I just bought my Mouse and was shocked to find paper was a dollar a sheet!

Bob

Originally posted by Dave
I don't want to tie up the board with a long post, but I have come up with a way to sand the projects I make that has cut my sanding time by at least 75%. If anyone is interested, feel free to e mail me and I will send you the info on how I sand all my pieces, large or small.
Dave

[Wanda]

Hi, Just a question - do you use sanding sealer at all? I tried it on Red Cedar but found that my finish still soaked it. Do you know what I did wrong? The label says to sand off after dry - which I did. I am assuming that what soaked into the wood is suppose to seal it. Any help appreciated.

[bmwbob]

Wanda, I do use a sealer on Cedar. I get Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) and thin it by half with Paint Thinner. I put the object in one of those cheap aluminum baking sheets and let it soak for a few minutes - or just a paper towel sheet rolled into a tampon and use that for an applicator. When soaked, dry it off with paper towels and blow out the details with compressed air. Let dry for until the 'smell' is gone and then you are ready for the finish.

The BLO soaks into the wood and seals it. then I coat the project with clear polyurethane.

Using BLO is much more efficient in sealing the project than the other sealers and really brings out the features of the wood.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Wanda, the answer to your question is you did nothing wrong. Any finish can be used as a sealer. If you are using a water base poly or lacquer it would have a tendency to raise the grain. You do not get this much with an oil base product. The first coat is called the sealer coat. You then build from there. Usually two coats on top will be sufficient. The key if you are going to use what is called sanding sealer and I think is a waste of money, is to not sand so much that you sanded through. If this is the case just add another coat of sanding sealer. But like I said you can skip it if you are just putting a clear coat on the piece. If you are staining and trying to avoid blotches than this is something else and yes the sealer coat will help. If you are looking for a soft warm look to the wood then BLO Boiled Linseed Oil mixed 50/50 with Mineral Spirits is a nice finish. This would be your sealer coat and then you can use anything to top coat, waterbase or oil. Hope this helps!

[Wanda]

Thankyou Folks. Sounds like I sanded to much off. The BLO sounds good to - back to the hardware store for me. Will go and try again. Happy sawdust making.

[Irish]

I have never used oil on any projects and plan on trying it in the in the next week . All the remarks will be very helpfull. I just read an article in the spring 2004. Woodcarving Illustrated by Carole Jean Boyd, that she uses regular motor oil and gets the same results as BLO. I think I would like to see if any one else has heard of this or tried it.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Never tried motor oil and I can truthfully say never will. That doesn't even sound safe because of additives in motor oil. You refered to a carver's magazine so I assume you are a carver and this is what you are going to try the oil on. I will say this I use the BLO (boiled linseed oil) 50/50 mixture(blo & mineral spirits) or Watco Danish oil on all my projects though I am a scroller. BLO is cheap and goes a long way.The idea with the oils is to pop the grain and give the wood a warm look. It works great. I like to dip my projects in a container and if the object can't be submersed then just brush it on. Let drain off and then wipe down with a lint free rag. Pour the remains back in the can and ready for the next project. After that I decide what top coat if any I will put on it. The big safety factor working with oils is not to throw the oiled rags in the trash. Hang them up to let them dry and then you can dispose of them. Don't bunch them up in a pile either for risk of spontaneous combustion. You also want to wear latex gloves. It gives the project a nice look, try it you will like it. Good Luck!

[Wanda]

Thanks for all the information. I oiled 3 of my original pieces with Maccadamia oil. Could I now Lacquer them? My husband said he used Californian oil on something years ago and then lacquered it. Not long after the lacquer peeled off. Does the oil always have to be mixed with Mineral Spirit?
Congratulations John theclockman on winning last months prize.

[ndtroll]

A note for Dave who mentioned using the B&D Mouse. I have had a Mouse for a while but never used it until today. I usually sand everythig on my bench belt sander. I have had the belt sander devour a few small projects when I'm not careful.
I used the Mouse on a oak clock I am making for a rural fire department. I cut the name of the fire department using my WoodTrax lettering program out of a 1" board. The name is attached to and centered between two for the firefighter maltese crosses. The center of one cross contains a 4" clock and the center of the other contains a 3 1/2" picture frame with a company logo. The company gives one of these clocks to every department that buys fire fighting equipment from them.
The mouse worked great for this and I anticipate using it much more in the future.
Thanks again for the tip on the Mouse

[Irish]

John T
Thanks for the information on Danish oil. Actually I do more scrolling than carving and was just trying to get feedback on the motor oil article. I just did four scrolling project in clear Danish Oil and pretty much follewed your advice. It says I will have to wait 72 hours before putting on a varnish. So far I like the results.
When I mess up a project I might try motor oil as an experiment.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Irish yes 72 hours is a minimum because it depends on humidity and weather. They say a good way to tell if it is dry is if it doesn't have a strong odor. Like I said I usually wait about 5 days for I always have other projects going on while they are drying. As far as the motor oil goes good luck. Wonder what that will smell like.

[Irish]

I will follow your advice and wait the five days as I also have several projects of my own and several honey doos going on. I did not stop to think about the additives in motor oil so it will be a project I mess up on . Will let you know how it comes out

[ndtroll]

Although I've never mentioned it before, I use natural Danish oil on almost all of my projects. The number of coats will depend on the type of wood and the luster I want to achieve. I have also used tung oil and Antique Oil with about the same results but my preference is Danish Oil.
I'll be interested to see if the motor oil experiment turns out