Radial Arm Saw

[JayDeavor]

Hello Everyone;

Finally had a chance to purchase a Craftsman 10" Radial Arm Saw to add to my small but growing woodworking tools.. I have very limited tools, But I am just starting the woodworking hobby. I purchased the Radial Arm Saw without a table (Pictured below).. I was wondering if someone could help me in the right direction for building a table for this saw.. Not looking for a stand, just a table for the top. As with the limited tools, I am also the first to tell you that I have limited woodworking skills for now.. Could anyone help me design or walk me through on how to build and mount the table so it would be square when I set the wood against the fence and cut? Thank you all in advance.

Jay

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I see you are a new comer so let me say welcome. To answer your question the best I suggest is do a google search. Here is a start http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeHomeWorkshopPlans/

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Radial_Arm_Saw_Setup.html

The key with a radial arm saw is the fence must be good and you need a stop block system.

Norm Abrams of the New Yankee workshop built a table and fence for his check his web site out. http://www.newyankee.com/Collection/collection.shtml

[pops-shop]

Jay

I see that John beat us all to the punch again. Let me add my welcome.

Knowing that the top will get grooved by the blade, you will be looking for sturdiness and not quality. The same goes for the area behind the fence. Most important is that the fence is square with the blade.

(Just my humble opinion)

[Servcman]

First of all let me add my welcome to the site.
The saw you puchased looks like one my father had that got handed down to me. While we had used it with no problems, when I needed parts for it Sears did not allow me to buy it as its under recall for improper guarding. Their solution for that is an offer of $100 to send them the motor to take it out of service. It may not be the same saw but it can be checked by the serial # at the Sears site. Some other similar models Sears has guard uprade kits available.
Dennis

[wisconsinwoodch]

The table on my saw is four pc. A two inch wide board Then a three inch wide set on edge to stick above the rest of the table to act as the fence, must be sq. with the blade , then the rest of the table, It is held togeather by the turn screws on the saw frame that way when it gets to groved up you just replace it with o new fence board or what ever needs replaceing, my table was made of partical board execpt for the first three pic.s that was maple, I have replaced the fence board a lot of times. Yes there is a recall , and also a replacement guard. hope this helps, the wisconsin wood chuck :) :) :)

[JayDeavor]

Hello again everyone;
Thank you all so much for the warm welcomes.. I just wanted to update everyone on the progress that I think I made so far... I have just added a table to the saw and I think it looks pretty good. I do how ever think I came into a little problem. I believe the table is set towards the back a little too much because the fence is behind the blade a good bit... Please look at the new pictures and let me know if I did do something wrong... Also as a beginner in the hobby I would love to hear all the tips and advise you have for me so far.. I did not get a chance to square the blade to the fence yet because of the small problem with the table.. Again thank you all so much and I am open to suggestions..
Jay

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Jay

Yes you did. The blade has to start behind the fence. This is so you can cut the thinnest pieces and the blade doesn't start out in the wood. Here is a picture from the links I provided above.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/radial_arm_saw_setup_1.jpg

You will also notice the top does not have to be so wide because nine out of ten times all you are doing is crossutting and there is just so much depth you can cross cut by the limits of the saw arm. Also many people like to make the top so the center portion can be changed out when it gets cut up so much it is a danger to use. You can do this with a piece of brown hardboard or even plywood. Remember the fence is the ultimate key to a good setup. Being able to use a stopblock, feather boards, and someway to clamp things is a plus. Good luck.

You asked for tips and advice and I am assuming you are refering to the use of this saw. There are many good beginner books that you can get. Check your library local book store or go to Fox Chapel on line and you will find some help with pictures. To sum up safety is the key to working with any power tools. Do not work when tired and always pay attention where your hands are when using that saw. There are always quite afew reports of people taking fingers off with use of power tools and it always comes down to not being aware of the dangers. Have a good dust collector and wear a dust mask especially if cutting MDF or any manmade products. Also use a proper blade with that saw. It has a negative pitch or at least a very minimal positive pitch. This is so because with that type of saw it will have a tendency to want to pull that saw through the wood and also lift the wood. These things should be in your instruction book.

[wisconsinwoodch]

I Just dug out my owners manual for sears MD. NO.113.1999250, it has table listed in four parts , rear table 6.75in. table spacer is next 2.00 in. then the fence 3/4 by 2.50 then the main table 18in.my table is made from pressed wood 1.25in thick these are the real demintions, as i just measured it. the reason for the table spacer is for when you use it to rip boards, that way you can set the blade right up to the fence. A very dangerest saw to rip with if you dont have all the kick back guards in the rite places.I have had this saw for 40 years never one bit of trobble, but that was when sears had good tools.I hope this helps. otherwise I would send you a copy of that part of the manual
wisconsin wood chuck :) :) :) :)