Preserving Burl

[astudaker]

This is my first time posting. I have been blessed with a gift of some sizable pieces of burl. My concern is protecting it from splitting or checking before I decide (It's been a year now already) what to make from it. I've been told to put linseed oil on it but am concerned that this may affect my ability to finish it with something else later on. It's such a beautiful piece of wood I don't want to make any mistakes. Any suggestions?

My appologies, I just realized that this is probably not the correct forum to ask this question however having written it I don't know how to move it to a correct forum now.

[Charlie]

My suggestion is to coat the cut portions of the burl with a couple of coats of a good Greenwood Sealer. Woodcraft sells some and I found it works real well at slowing down the evaporation rate. There is another brand that I can think of called Anchor.

Another thing you can do is heat up parafin and paint that over the cut end. The wax will seal the wood and slow down the evaporation rate.

I do a lot of woodturning and this is how a lot of woodturners keep their bowl blanks from splitting. Water evaporates the quickest from exposed endgrain and that is where you want to seal it.

Keep the burls out of the sun and out of the heat.

[astudaker]

Charlie, Thanks. I appreciate the information. I'm leaning heavily towards making either an end table and or a coffee table (on piece is 52" x 18" x 2"). Any suggestions on a finish? I've seen this finish used on bar tops that are like a clear urethane but extremely thick. You must have to pour it on. Not sure what it's called but I'm curious what drawbacks there might be.

[MustangMom]

That clear coating stuff is called Envirotex. Used it years ago on a table in the van. Wears great. A little tricky to apply but does make a nice, long lasting finish. I bought some recently from Wildwood Designs, they call it a polymer coating. Also available in most craft stores. More information:
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm

[astudaker]

Thanks, I'll look into that product. When you say a bit tricky to apply can you elaborate?

[MustangMom]

Sure. It requires thorough mixing with several containers. Your object must be level and have a way for the mixture to run off the sides. To eliminate the bubbles that pop up, it is recommended that you exhale upon them or use a blow torch. It needs several days to cure in a dust free area and you have about a 30 min. time frame to work within before it starts to set up. It's tricky for me because it's more coordination than I have, but it can be done and does make a very nice finish. All of this is also explained in that website, if none of the above makes sense. Good luck.

[Admin]

Several different grades are also available here - w/instructions.

http://liquidglasscoating.com

Supposedly the carbon dioxide in an open flame (or your exhaled breath if you're windy) is what removes the bubbles.

[kkmbknap]

i have lately been using something i picked up from another woodworker and it works GREAT just take regular white elmers and dilute it to about 3 to 1 and soak or paint your wood with it , it dries clear and haven't had any of my green wood crack yet. this is ONLY a suggestion and to be used at your own discretion as i don't want to be responsable for somebody ruining an expensive piece but i have had excellent results.

[Larry Wilson]

What do you dilute it with? I have lots of green wood, but cracking is usually a problem.

[kkmbknap]

I just dilute it with plain water, and apply several coatings just to be on the safe side