Band Saw Recomendations?

[astudaker]

I'm looking for some suggestions on band saws. One key is that I want to use it for resawing to get more out of rough lumber stock. I see some allow a riser block to extend the hight for larger pieces. Advantages .. disadvantages? It also would need to be 120 volt. As usual I don't want to spend a lot but willing to save for the right one.

[Dave]

I have a Grizzly 15" bandsaw I am very happy with. However, I can't put a riser block in it so I am limited to 7" on height for resawing. But it resaws beautifully, with no blade drift at all. I have it running on 220 but it can also run on 110. I think the price is $445.00. You can go to www.grizzly.com to see all of their saws.
You need one with at least a 1 HP motor that will take a3/4" width blade to do a good job. Saws with riser blocks cost more money, but if you are going to do a lot of resaw work on taller material it is cheaper to go that way than to buy a larger height saw.
I use mine mostly for resawing, but it also does an excellent job cutting curves too and has plenty of power.
Just my two cents wortn. Good luck and happy hunting.
Dave

[astudaker]

Thanks Dave, I'll look into Grizzly. Though I don't own any of their products they have peaked my interest several times.

I'm wondering now if having a larger capacity has a trade off with blade drifting problems or do some manufacturers have a different attachment/jig that is made specifically for resawing that would prevent it from drifting?

[dananne]

You might want to check the Griz. 12" bandsaw with the riser blocks for price. With a 3/4 blade, 4 to 6 tooth, you can rip a lot of wood very easily. The drift is more likely to come from the teeth of the blade, than the saw. When teeth are sharpned, if they are all ground alike, sometimes there is more wire edge on one side of the blade than the other. That will cause drift. Cheap blades can be stamped from one side only, then set, and that will sure cause drift. When the saw is out of alingment, it wil be more likely to show up in blade movement in and out, or off the wheels. I have a Harbor Frieght 12" 4 speed that I bought for $220 that I mostly use a 1/8" blade on for cutting outlines that I will carve. Good blades make a world of difference. I do not have the blocks for my saw, but they are available and if I get some extra change some day I will add them. The saw can be adjusted to run true with them.

[astudaker]

Thanks Dananne,
I appreciate the insight. Pardon my ignorance but do blocks in the blade guide replace roller guides or enhance them? Why are they better?

[Dave]

If I am undestanding the last message right, the blocks replace the roller guides. Most of them are made out of a ceramic material which allows the bade to run smoother and cooler. Another great advantage is that if you should twist the blade a little and it gets into the guides, the ceramic guides won't dull the blade. If the blade gets into the steel guides, the sparks will fly.
The guides are called cooling blocks, and they are a worthwhile investment.
When I use a 1/8" blade I generally always go too fast or turn too sharp and the blade will hit the guides, so I am well sold on the cooling blocks.
Dave

[dananne]

Blocks are cheaper. Much cheaper. That is for guides on the sides of the blades. All of the bandsaws I have seen have had roller bearings for the back edge of the blade. I am using a form of "cool blocks" in my saw now. If I could have the side rollers I would. They can be adjusted tighter. The blocks do a fine job but they wear, as they do, the space the blade can wander in gets larger. Makes for poorer and/or more difficult cutting. I check mine almost every time I use the saw. I also adjust the spacing a little loose when I am rough cutting, and when I want a extra good cut, I move them in where there is no side play in the blade. But that overheats the blade so go easy.
While I am at it, regardles of roller bearings or blocks on the sides of the blade, adjust them so that the teeth project in fron of the guides. The teeth, all the way to the back of the gullet must be in the clear. The body of the blade behind the teeth is what you are trying to keep from twisting. Also be sure the lower guides are adjusted the same as the upper.
There are some good books out on bandsaws. It is one of the best machines to own if you use it to its fullest. I have cut half circles at 24" radius out of 2 by material and I have cut lots of 1/8" material on mine. Different blades, but all one man operations.

[astudaker]

Thanks Dave & Dananne,

This has been very helpful. Could I also ask a few questions relating to blades and overheating. 1 - What would give me an early warning that I'm overheating the blade? 2 - What size blade and speed considerations do you look at when resawing anything within the 6" to 10 " range? I realize wood type (hardwood versus soft makes a difference) would have an effect but with so many different saw blade choices (teeth/inch & width) it looks confusing. I don't want to waste a lot of everyones time so maybe you can answer some of this and/or suggest a good reference book/website that I can look for. Again thanks for your input .. It has made signing up for this forum very worthwhile.

[dananne]

Mark Duginske wrote two books, The Band Saw Bench Guide and The Band Saw Handbook. They are available through Linden Publishing. www.lindenpub.com The Band Saw Handbook I have read and I feel it covers most questions you could ask in you first few years of using a Band Saw. Check your public library and a local high school library for a copy you can look at. Then you will know if you wish to buy.
For resawing, use the widest blade your machine is rated for. The little Inca takes a blade several inches wide. Can't get any better than that. Skip tooth blades have room for sawdust which speeds things up. Resawing is a ripping cut so you want a tooth that is like a chisel. Lots of choice and some is just personal preference that comes with trying different things.
Band Saws are one tool that can be inproved on by the owner. Like most radial arm saws, and others, the band saw has some adjustments built into it that allow you to true it up for the maximum accuracy. Most will do a fair job right out of the box but as you continue to work with them, you can improve the way they operate by doing little things. That's where experience and some good books come in handy. Good luck and have fun.

[Dave]

There are several really good books on bandsaw operations. I have one called Bandsaw Handbook. It tells you things you can do with a bandsaw I never dreamed of doing, as well as how to keep it running in the best of shape, maintenance procedures, etc.
You can find these books at various places. Barnes & Noble, Books A Million, Hasting's and several others I'm sure, as well as online at Amozon.com.
The best bades for resawing are hook tooth blades with 3-4 teeth per inch, 3/4" wide or more, depending on how wide a blade your bandsaw can accomodate.
I would also recommend you fasten an auxilliary fence to your bandsaw fence that is almost as tall as the height you can rip on your saw. This will help you hold your wood flush against your fence.
Hope this helps some.
Dave

P.S. Never be concerned about asking questions. If we don't ask questions, we never learn.

[Dave]

To add one more thing, what dananne posted is right on target. There are so many things you can do with a bandsaw, and discovering them is half the fun, and isn't that what woodworking really is for us? More fun than we ever imagined?
Dave

[astudaker]

Again you both have been extremely helpful. Thanks for taking so much time with me. I will definetly check out your suggestions on books. When I finally buy my saw (and accessories) I know I won't have any buyers remorse now.

[Oldjoat]

Dan,
Just before Christmas I was in Lowes and purchased a 14" Delta open base bandsaw. I think it has a 3/4hp motor only paid 287.00 for it and I thought I got a good deal. I did not get the riser block for it as get blocks of cherry, maple and other woods from a friend that has a pallet mill. These blocks are only 4" to 5" thick. I should get the saw this monday what do you think did I get a good deal.

[dananne]

Hi - and congrats on getting a new tool. Man that can make a guy happy. The first Delta 14" I ever saw or used was in Jr. High School back in when, '39?, a long time ago. Every school shop I taught in had a Delta 14". One did because I ordered it. I selected it most likely because I knew it and others I hadn't used. I did use an Oliver 18" for a couple of years, but we had a 14 to the 18 was reserved for resawing. I didn't know that a Delta could be bought for under $400. One suggestion on the Delta. The tension spring on the back of the upper wheel is marked for blade width. I guess on the new saws, the spring is a little stiff, but when I got a new Delta, I was overtigheneng the blade and ruined a set of tires. On a new saw, tighten almost as thight as they suggest, then after you break it in, you will have a feel for it and most likely will do a good job. That saw sounds like a real good deal. And the riser can be added 10 years down the line if you decide you need it. Are you going to be resawing those blocks from your friend? They also sound like wood ready to go on the lathe. Hi. Woodworking is a great way to spend money. Enjoy Dan

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

This topic is being discussed on another forum also. I have the 14' Dela with the 6" riser block. I have had it for about 15 years and it has served me very well. I do a lot of resawing with it . Like I said on the other forum I only wish they used a larger motor. Now you say they have a 3/4 HP motor that is great. It will be all the power you need. I sometimes have trouble resawing heavy dense exotics. I use a Lennox 3/4" carbide tooth blade for resawing because I resaw a lot of exotics. You don't need that if you are only sawing wood as hard as oak. Just look for a low tension blade. Timberwolf, Viking, Tufftooth are all the same blade just different prices. Olson has come out with a proffesional line of blades that are of the low tension type which I am currently using and like them very well. When resawing you want to use the largest blade you can to help with drift, ussally 3/4" will do just fine. A lot of people use 1/2". When ordering blades just tell them what you are mainly doing with them. As far as blade guides go roller bearings are good for large blades but when you use 1/8", 3/16" blades they have a habit of twisting when you are doing tight turns and hitting the roller bearings just once takes life out of that blade. I use the Carter bearing guide system for blades that small and the cool blocks for all others. One other thing remember if you are going to put a riser kit on then you now need larger blades, so don't over buy the regular blades. One other very important thing to remember is don't leave tension on a blade. When done sawing for the night it is a good idea to release the tension off. This is done to so you don't ruin the tires on the saw. Good Luck!!! JTTHECLOCKMAN

[Oldjoat]

Thanks guy's the last time I used a bandsaw was in high school and thats 52 years ago. I am not sure how wide of a blade this saw will take but I can find that out when I get it. Thanks again for the ideas. I will check into getting the best price on the blades you guy's talked about.
Bill

[dananne]

Bill, after thinking a little, I'll add this to what's been said. If you just take that Delta out of the box and set it up like the book says and put on it whatever blade came with it, you are in business. It will cut your 4x4 blocks just fine. It will also cut anything else you want to cut within the abilities of the blade. The most likely cause of problem in the first few times the saw is used, is pulling the blade off the wheels by trying to back out of a cut. Even a short back up, like a 1/2 inch can do it. That takes care. The next most likely problem is twisting to fast while cutting and that can cause a blade to break. Minor problems like bowing a blade from feeding to fast usually show up after these other mistakes are made. You are old enough and experienced enough that you will do fine.
When you do decide to buy extra blades to increase versitility, it is not like a scroll saw, don't buy by the gross. I have worn out blades is a hurry cutting plywood, but cutting clean wood will give you lots of cutting before you need another blade. I keep three sizes on hand and could get by on just two. 1/8 for sharp curves, 3/8 for general cutting of gentle curves, and 3/4 for trying to cut straight. Teeth range from 14 on the 1/8 to 6 skip on the 3/4.
Have fun, Dan

[astudaker]

Well guys after considering everything you've said and reading the books & reviews I've finally made a decision on the bandsaw of choice. With the help of some Christmas gift money (and a good portion of my savings) I've decided to purchase the Grizzly 17" model G0513 bandsaw. I'm going to wait till early spring though to order it as I don't want to take delivery in this weather/season (Minnesota) trying to get it into the house an all. I also have to make room for it. I'm excited though. I realize it's a big saw but I figure I won't have to worry about growing out of it and it's going to have plenty of power to do resawing. Again I want to thank all of you for your advice. You are one tremendous knowledge base from which to draw. I'll keep you posted on when I order it and let you know the play by play experience.

- Andy

[dananne]

That's great Andy. Keep hanging around here and do keep us posted on how things work out. Dan

[Oldjoat]

Hi Guy's
Got my saw monday and got it all set up this afternoon. Had to get my big strong son in law to help me set it up boy that saw has some heavy pieces on it. I cut 2 slices of one of the cherry blocks I have. The saw cut real good but it is only a 1/4" blade that came with the saw I just had to try it. Now I have to look around and find a good price on a timberwolf 1/2 or 3/4" blade. I am only going to pick up one blade for know to see how it goes.:D :D :D :D

[dananne]

Hi Bill - Those things are heavy, thank goodness. You paid just a little over a $1.00 a pound, didn't you. Glad it is working. I just posted a question about blades under the scrollsaw - general that you might want to see the answers to when the guys respond, which I hope they will. Lots of them. Good luck, Dan