View Full Version : wood glue
john_p
11-02-2003, 03:57 AM
one quick question; i want ro laminate a dark and a light wood for turning. small bowls or ?.. anyone know wood types and the right glue? i have been in the hobby forever, but just bought a lathe, thanks great grandpa john
dananne
11-02-2003, 09:54 PM
Hi John, You opened up a big box with that one. As to glues, some woods are easier than others to glue. Some glues are more waterproof or water resistant than others. TiteBond has a water resistant (proof??) glue that I like. It holds good and leaves a soft brown glue line. If the joint is as good as it should be, you dont see the glue line. As to dark and light, I like turning hardwoods, so I try to pick woods that have a similar fibre structure when I am using more than one type in a single turning. Walnut and maple go together o.k. I won't mix say walnut and ash because ash has a more open grain. Now to change all that, I have seen others who have mixed just about anything and had great results. I have seen some segmented work that was real beautiful. So far, my attempts at that have been less than I liked. I am not a real good turner. Another thought about the different woods. Those that are more oily than others might require a different glue. But regardless, the best fitting joint you can get will look real good and turn good also. Some of you other woodturners get in here and make a comment or two. Dan
john_p
11-02-2003, 10:36 PM
Thanks Dananne, walnut and maple i have access to, both very green, will that effect glue types and do any of you have comments on contact cement for glueing up joints.
thanks great-grandpa john
dananne
11-03-2003, 04:53 PM
I sure can't get excited about contact cement. I would stick with a glue that is designed to make glue joints in wood. The green wood can be glued. Takes more drying time. Takes longer to truly cure. I haven't glued up much green wood, and never for turning. As green wood seasons, it changes shape and size and the joint that has been glued may not like that. Generally it will try to stay the same size, causing something to give somewhere. Check your library for books on woodturning. Green wood is easier on the lathe, but can change a lot when it dries. Dry wood is harder on the lathe, but will end up the shape you make it. Even though it is harder to cut, dry wood is my choice for beginners. Also you might go to Google and run a search for turning wood (bowls or spindles). A lot might turn up. Dan
john_p
11-03-2003, 10:50 PM
thanks, i have never tried to glue green wood, but i do carve a lot of green wood, and if you treat it right, you get by with it. you are right to glue, then turn then dry would be a push. i have used contact cement on veneer but both surfaces were 5-6 percent. i wanted to get by with free wood but you woke me up. thanks john
dananne
11-04-2003, 10:25 AM
Hey, don't give up on that green wood -- that's good stuff -- take a look at the discussions under Forums -Woodturning - General. I am going to try that idea soon - soon as I can get back into the shop for a while. Dan
gapenturner
11-07-2003, 04:45 PM
I use CA glue (super glue) for all my laminating needs. Does a great job and dries super fast.
john_p
11-09-2003, 04:07 PM
thanks i just glued up some blanks using gorilla glue, i'll try the ca and see how that works. when i carve green wood i place the piece in the oven over night to case dry it, then it sucks in the tounge oil like a sponge. i only had one split and it was very large. turning seems a little more precise due to the rpms and to chance of a blowout.
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