Lathe ??????

[gdog]

Which lathe would be the better choice for pens: Jet Mini, Delta Midi or Carba Tech? Or another?

[john_p]

just 3 words J E T

[dwdajo]

What lathe have you been using?

[gdog]

I've not been using one. I want to get a small lathe for pens and some small turning. Just wanted some input on which would best suit my purposes.

[Sam Scalzo]

I had a Carba Tec and sold it. I now have a Jet and a Delta Midi Lathe. Both are very good. The Delta has the off and on switch on the left which I find very handy.

[dodgeman5]

Mu son and I both have Grizzley pen lathes. This is my second lathe. First one was not a Grizzley and I wore it out in under one year. The Grizzley sells for apprx. $140, has switch on left side with built in speed control, and a No. 1 Morse taper. In my opinion, its as good as the higher priced name brands, same warranty, and works long and hard for me.

Dennis
Elite Tack Store

[dougle40]

I have no problem turning everything from pens to key rings to perfume atomizers et all on a full size lathe , which also allows me to turn other things like candle holders and bowls all on the same piece of equipment , the only change I make is the size of the tools .:)

[dodgeman5]

I have used full size lathes,too, but for doing demos at craft booths, a pen size lathe is easier to transport, setup, and takes up less booth space that you can use to show products.

Dennis

[dougle40]

Good point Dennis but I don't do demos at shows , most shows are indoors and they frown upon the dust being thrown up from the turning and sanding .:(
I guess the point I was trying to make is that people don't have to go out and buy a special lathe just to make pens , where a full size one is much more versitile in the long run .
Doug

[dananne]

Dougle has a good thought there. A standard lathe will do many jobs. Also the price is not what reflects what the lathe can on can not do. By that I mean that an old lathe can do most of the things that a new one will do. There are three basic requirements to a lathe. 1 - The shaft or drive must turn true. 2. The tail must be on center. 3. You need to control the speed. If these three are met than the rest of the job is developing methods to hold the work and support the chisels while you shape the wood. I watched a guy turn legs for a table on a man powered lathe and he did about as fast a job as I would do on my Delta. (full size) He did have a helper on the power. Whith that said, my next requirement for my lathe is replaceable parts. The bearings are most important. They make it run true if they are good and installed right. My Delta spent 20 years in a school shop. The bearings were the only thing that wore out. I replaced them from stock. Nothing special, just a standard size bearing. The part of the lathe that is cast iron should last the next owner about another 100 years. I have made some parts for it that I am ashamed of but they work so I haven't made the effort to redo them like they should be. I guess what I am saying is if it is a real lathe, made the best man knows how, than a craftsman will be able to use it for a life time. Buying a used real lathe, even though it is old, if it was meant for a professional turner, it can be a real quaility buy. Thanks for letting me blow steam. Dan

[dougle40]

Well said Dan . The lathe that I bought was new and has a tubular bed that comes in 2 pieces , I had a machinist freind make me an end fitting so that I could use only 1/2 of the bed thereby shortening the overall length when I want to turn pens and the like , then it's a simple matter of removeing the fitting and replacing it with the full bed for longer work . Overall this method works great . On the shortened bed I can turn a piece about 24" long and over 48" with the full bed.
Much more versatile than a small lathe which is good only for short work.
Doug.:) :D

[dougle40]

PS ,
I own a small lathe which now just sits gathering "DUST"

[dananne]

Doug - It makes me feel real good to know that there are still guys around (hey - I better make that unisex) crafts people around that like to modify their tools to do the job they want to do. So many feel that if it wasn't made to do the job, don't do it. But there are exceptions to that. For example, there are some small 1/2 inch drill presses being imported that are good buys. I paid $40 for mine and about a month later found another place had them for $35. The motor is good, the chuck is good, and they run true. But the distance between the chuck and the table was so small you couldn't use anything except short twist drills. My spade bits were too long. Somewhere I heard that muffler pipe could be bought in the same diameter, so I just got me a peice and now I have enough room. In fact, I have more than I need most of the time. I kept the old column and also have another peice of the muffler pipe in case I want to change back. That's using a tool for something it wasn't designed for but it is not the same as using a chisel to open a can of paint. More power to you. Dan

[dougle40]

Hi Dan ,
I know what you mean about the drill press , I have one that does'nt have enough travel to drill through a pen blank so I drill part way through , stop , place a 3/4" board under the drilling vise and continue the drilling the hole .
Whatever works !:D ;)

[tipusnr]

Sorry to read Dougle's last post. I have the same problem with the throw on my Craftsman drill press and was hoping there was a way to modify that other than the block trick (which I also use).

The problem that I have to be careful to avoid is moving the blank while making the adjustment and changing the shape from a circle to an oval.

If anyone has any ideas that are cheaper than buying a large floor model drill press - I'm all ears!

[dougle40]

Hi Bill,
I find the best way to prevent an oval condition when drilling this way is to keep the drill bit in the part , shut the press off , then slip the backer board under the vise while keeping the drill bit in the wood . This way you don't have to worry about going off center . :)

[dananne]

Hi Bill
Nice to know that there are a lot of us making do with short throw drill presses. I use a vise that is mounted on a board that I clamp to the table. When the quill hits bottom, I shut down the motor, back of on the vise handle enough to free the block, raise the block while it is still on the blade, slip a scrap under it, tighten the vise, finish the drilling. Only have about 1/4 or less to go so I don't think there is much problem. By leaving the block on the bit when I raise the bit, the block returns to the vise in line with the bit. Try it, you'll like it. LOL
Dan