Suggestions for finishing

[RGB]

I've been using HUT CRYSTAL COAT POLISH to finish my pens after sanding. While I like it, I was wondering if there was something a little glossier. It also seems that it looks okay while on the lathe but a few days later the gloss appears to fade. Am I imagining this, doing something wrong or expecting too much from the polish. Just wondered what others in the know are using.

Thanks!

Rob

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Rob

When it comes to finishes on just about any project you will find there are as many varieties as there are people using them and everyone has a favorite. Alot comes down to the beholder and his or her's taste. Now first of all any polish that is applied will look good for a time but will not stand up to the rigors of everyday use. But there are people that will tell you that hand rubbed look is what they like. But for durability there are a few proven choices. I will list them in no particular order and will not say one is better than the other. All have their pros and cons and can go through them if you are interested in a particular one.

CA or CA/BLO. Both are highly used. Slight learning curve.
Enduro which is a water-based poly. Very durable
Melted plexiglass. Big learning curve but very durable.
Then there are the other polys and even lacquer but lacquer does break down over time.
Have to remember the pen is an object that gets handled alot.

While you are on finishes I think another very important aspect to a good quality pen is the plating of the kits used. The higher the quality the more expensive but if selling this goes a lng ways to good customer service. Hope this helps a bit. I am sure you will get others to fill in the blanks.

[William Young]

RGB;
The polish you are using is just that . . . a polish. A lot of pen turners use it at the start but soon find they are getting returns from customers because the "finish" is wearing off because they don't realize it was only a polish and not a finish at all.
Laquers and Urethanes are durable but inpart a plasticky look. BLO I believe is the hardest an longest wearing one when properly applied and it does not cast a plasticky look and lets the natural grain of the wood show through .
Most of the well know dedicated and experienced pen turners now use the CA finish .
When I was using the shellac based poilshes only (which Hutt Crystal Coat is) I wouldn't guarantee it any more than a couple weeks and I still got returns within that time. I tried so many of similar products and have so much stock by trial and error that I am now using it as a "polish" on top of my CA finish just to use it up. Not that CA needs that application because CA will provide equal shine to the polishes when properly applied. It is just a way for me to use up some expensive stock that is not to my expectations for pens as a "finish" . I am also using it up on some turnings like bowls and goblets and turned boxes etc that do not get handled as much as pens do and are more or less show items on a shelf rather than constantly handled items. .

I speak from experience on shellac polishes, urethanes, lacquers . . both WB and NG types, and plexiglass. I have used every one of them over the course of making hundreds of pens. . I have settled on CA as my finish of choice for pens ..
W.Y.

[Ex19k]

I agree with John. Ask anyone here and they will give you a different finish that they use. Since i rode the short horse to school CA does nothing but make a mess for me. Cant ever get it right. So I made my own "goop". I use one part poly, one part yung oil and a drop or four of japan drier. so far it works for me and the pens dont look plasticy. As soon as i can get my airbrush working am going to try to just use the poly.
Have fun and happy turning