Scrollsaws

[OldtimerJTD]

What brand of scrollsaws are you using and how do you like it? I have a Delta P-20 and really like it so far. Haven't done much sawing yet, but what I have done, I'm addicted!!
Oldtimer

[steve03@frontie]

I am using a delta q3 18" variable speed saw and have had it for approx. ten years without much maintenance on it.It is a very good quality tool for I use it almost daily. I am also addicted!!! Scroll On!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[dougle40]

I have a Ridgid 18" variable speed that I've been using for about 8 years now and have never had to do a thing to it , oilite bearings . I wouldn't give it up for the world . It sits on an old microwave stand with a piece of sanding pad under it and it doesn't move , very little vibration too.

[dananne]

I am using a Penn State Ind. that I bought way, way back there. Has been real good to me. The only time it got mad at me was when I used a pin blade and tightened it up too tight and broke the jaw at the pin. My fault and even tho Penn State gave up that saw years ago, they still had parts, one of which, a lower arm, I bought. and the machine is back in service. One of those things where missuse creates problems. Dan

[Oldjoat]

I purchased a Hegner 18" scrollsaw about a year ago. I have not been able to use the saw much but I think I might be able too tryit again soon.

Oldjoat

[dananne]

Bill. I have never used a Hegner but I have seen them demonstrated several times. From what I have read about them and what I have seen, I think they are about as good as it gets. Dan

[steve03@frontie]

Fellow Scrollers, I recently spoke with Clay Dalton from Porter Cable Delta machinery, he is over their scroll saw developement and research.I believe we may be in for a surprise from Delta when their new scroll saw comes out on the market.Give Clay a call and let him know what kind of features that you would like to see on a new scroll saw. Tell him Steve Westfall sent you his way.The phone number is 1-800-368-1487 ext.9880. Scroll On!!!!!!! Steve

[pops-shop]

Just purchased the new saw from Sears - was rated a "Best Buy" in one of the wood magazines. So far, I love it.

Man, by reading the posts, some of you guys have $$$$$ in your equipment. Although, I don't see anyone using a Hark.

[uhmnl]

You got some good looking projects there Fred.
Nice Home page.
Mike M

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Now here is a topic that will and does get debated over and over. As you can see there are scrollers that just love their saws. As far as the best saw or what a good saw is, it depends on who you ask. So I will add my two cents. I started on a dremel 12" saw many years ago. It was an entry saw. Took a liking to this hobby. Next saw up was a 16" Hegner. Saw them used at a woodworking show. This was about 15 years ago. Back then they didn't have the up front tensioning system that they have today. Great machine, still use it on occations. Very quiet and no vibration. Wanted to upgrade so I went to another woodworking show and saw the RBI demonstrated. Tried it there and fell in love with it. Wound up purchasing the 226. That was about 10 years ago. Then one day I decided to get a smaller saw and bought the RBI 220. Still have both machines and would recomend them very highly. I think they are the cadillac of saws. I know they are pricey but I believe you get what you pay for. The saw runs smoothe, the tensioning system is easy and excellent. Any problems there is a RBI rep. only a phone call away and I think that is important. Remember you want to have fun when doing this great artform. It should be as pleasurable as possible. OK I am off my soap box. My vote is for the RBI. JTTHECLOCKMAN

[Oldjoat]

Dan,
I have not used my saw very much as I had some health problems a little while after I got the saw. I am starting to feel much better now and want to get back in my shop. I am going to have to be more carefull of the dust now. The little I used the saw I got a blade clamp and some Flying Dutchman blades from Mike. I tried the blades and found they cut very good.
Bill

[dougle40]

I've tired just about every type of blade on the market and it wasn't until I tried the "Crown Tooth " blades did I find what I've been looking for all these years . After I tried them once I've never looked back and don't use anything else . They are so nice in the fact that they leave the underside of your work splinter free and virtually no sanding is needed .
Secondly they are much cheaper to use due to the fact that they cut in both directions all you do when the blade gets dull is reverse it . 2 blades for the price of 1. can't beat that:) :)

[dananne]

Bill, glad to hear that you are going to get back to woodworking. Sorry to hear about the dust problem. I have worked in wood dust for a number of years, most schools didn't have the money for a real good program much less something like a dust collection system. In my old age I am begining to have some problems, even in my shop where I don't do much. I bought some dust masks from Harbor Freight, cheap, but effective. I use them now when I am using the disk sander, and with some woods, when using the band saw. With the lathe, only when I am sanding. With the scroll saw, with some woods. I also use a fan to blow the dust away from me. In fact I have three different size fans in the shop, all moveable to the job.

Doug - Where do you get those blades????

Thanks guys Dan

[dougle40]

Hi Dan ,
The "Crown Tooth Blades " are made by Olson, I don't see them in the Steebar catalogue but they are listed in "Sloan's Woodshop" ads. At first they sound more expensive , $2.30 per dozen compared to $1.95 per dozen but when you realize that you can turn them around and keep going that makes them $2.30 for 24 blades .
They come in all the regular sizes from 2/0 to 12 .
I'm sure that you could find them other places also . I get mine from a Canadian distributer and when I'm at a woodshow I stock up .
Hope this helps.:) :)

[dananne]

Doug - it sure did. I put Olson Crown Tooth Blde into Google and got a bunch of people selling them. Started down the list and their prices ranged from $4 to $6 a doz. Got down to CherryTree and they were $2 doz. Varied. $1.90 to 2.30. Guess I will visit CherryTree when I next order. Also looking for some cheap plywood in about 12 x 12. Would like Birch 7 layer 1/4 inch. Am going back to Google for a while.

[dougle40]

Dan ,
If you check out your local lumber yards you should be able to find one who carries "Baltic Birch " plywood which is 5 ply but Baltic Birch has no voids in it . It usually comes in 5'x5' sheets and while it's a little bit more expensive than particle core it's worth every penny . Thats all I use when it comes to plywood , in every size from 1/8-3/4 , for use in fret work , I'll use particle core for backers and the like.
Check out www.sloanswoodshop.com for the Crown Tooth blades , their price is $2.30/doz. or $23.00/gross .

[steve03@frontie]

Hi Scrollers, If anyone uses alot of blades as I do you may want to check out Cherry Tree's insider club it will give you an extra 10% off of your woodworking supplies. I buy my olsen blades through them by the gross. Hope this helps. Steve

[pops-shop]

Seems like a couple of "y'all" like the crown tooth. Have any of you compared the crowns to skip tooth reversible??? I have been using the reverse tooth for a while now simply because they eliminate the problem of splintering the bottom of the wood. Do the crown tooth blades actually cut better all the way around??? Really interested because I'm just about ready to order some more blades.

Thanks in advance for your input.

fred :rolleyes:

[dougle40]

Hi All,
Yes I have used the reverse tooth blades but they are a 1 time use blade . The Crown tooth blades are a little slower to use but the quality is much better . and cheaper due to the fact that you can use the blade from either end . The only thing you have to remember is weather or not you already reversed it. Like I said before , once I tried them I've never looked back . As far as splintering on the back side , it's virtually eliminated . I swear by them . @#$%^&* See ! LOL
Try it you'll like it ! LOL

[uhmnl]

The Crown tooth blades is NOT made by Olson. They are imported from Germany. Most of the time, when it gets dull and you turn it over,the strenght of the blade is gone and it breaks. If you want to try an other good one, email:
mike@ mikesworkshop.com and he is glad to send you a sample of a good blade. It is similar to the crown tooth blade.
$ 1.90/doz and NO S/H charges.
Mike

[Oldjoat]

Hi All,
I have used the Flying Dutchman blades and I found that they cut super. I started out sawing with some blades that Hegner sent me with the new saw. I had a lot of problems with those blades then I talked to Mike and he sent me some blades to try and I thought I had a different saw they were so good. Now I just have to do some more scrolling and stop making designer fire wood. I would like to make one of those big clocks that you pro's make. "O" well maybe some day.
Bill

[dougle40]

I have never had a problem with the Crown tooth blades breaking even when I mistakenly turn it over for the second time .
There other "Crown Tooth " type blades out there but I've never tried them , I found one that works great and have never changed . I honestly can't think of any knock-off that performs as good as the original .
As far as blades breaking , I think that I can count on the fingers of my hands how many blades I've broken over the last 7-8 years of scroll sawing. The key is in the tensioning of the blade , over tension it and it probably will snap , but use the right tension and you shouldn't have any problems unless you try to force it .:)

[Oldjoat]

Doug,
How do you set your tension. I was told to set it by turning the tension knob till it has some resistance to it then 1/4 turn more. Then move the tension release lever back. When the blade is plucked it makes a nice clear sound.
Bill

[dougle40]

My scroll saw doesn't have a lever but it has a tensioning knob at the back of the arm and what I do is tighten it up until I feel tension then turn it 4 more times , the plucking method sometimes works but it all depends on the blade , the harder the blade , the stronger the sound it makes and visa-versa .
I find the best way is to tighten it until you can only bend it about 1/8" when you put finger pressure on the blade front to back . This has always worked for me and now I know just how many turns to put on the adjustment knob after I feel the tension .You have to play with your own machine and find out where that position is. l
>l<
l 1/8"
l


I don't know if the diagram I tried to draw above helps or not but this is what I mean about finger pressure .
Well the diagram didn't come out as it was on my screen but it may give you the idea.

[Oldjoat]

Doug,
I get the idea and I will try it tomorrow and see how it works.
Thanks
Bill

[dougle40]

Let me know how you make out Bill

[pops-shop]

It's rather humorous to see "Oldjoat" as a "Junior" member. But that's just my wierd sence of humor talking.

obtw, Mike's workshop is sending me a sample of the crown tooth blades. Thanks for the suggestion.

fred

[dougle40]

HI ,
Mike contacted me too and he is sending me a sample of the Flying Dutchman blades too .
I'll let you know how I like them after I try them.
They are different than Crown Tooth blades though , instead of every tooth cutting in both directions they have 2 cutting down an 1 cutting up .It will be interesting to see what the difference is .

[dananne]

I really enjoy the way these discussions go from subject to subject without ever changing the main trust of the idea.

I want to add my thanks to Mike at MikesWorkShop for putting me on the list of one's to receive blades. Even if the blades were no good I would want to buy something from him just because he is treating everybody real good and I know that the blades will be competitive with the best if not the best just because he uses them himself and knows what he is talking about. He work shows that.

As to lumber yards carrying Baltic Birch, I guess I am from a small town. We have a McCoy's here, and we have a local lumber yard. He does carry some not normal stock, such as Philipine Mahogany in 2 x and 3x size. But true Baltic Birch ply is not in demand in this little town. Will check out Corpus Christi some time, there is likely someone over there that carries some.

Dan

[dougle40]

There are a number of mail order wood craft houses that carry Baltic Birch and also Finnish Birch but usually in smaller sizes such as 12"x12" - 12"x24" etc you might try one of them if you can't find it locally and if those sizes suit your purpose .
As for small towns , I live in a town of about 3000 people and our Home Hardware lumber yard stocks Baltic Birch plywood , it's one of the best for making large items that are going to be made from plywood , very nice due to the fact that there are on voids in it.

[dougle40]

There are a number of mail order wood craft houses that carry Baltic Birch and also Finnish Birch but usually in smaller sizes such as 12"x12" - 12"x24" etc you might try one of them if you can't find it locally and if those sizes suit your purpose .
As for small towns , I live in a town of about 3000 people and our Home Hardware lumber yard stocks Baltic Birch plywood , it's one of the best for making large items that are going to be made from plywood , very nice due to the fact that there are on voids in it.

[Oldjoat]

Hi Guy's,
I know what you mean Fred I am a 71 year old junior member O well guess I will just write more on this forum. This forum seems to be a lot more help than some of the others I have been on. I know what you are saying about changing subjectsI think it's neat how it changes around.

[dananne]

Doug, my local also stocks a Birch plywood for cabinets, etc. But it is a low grade compared to true Baltic Birch. They call it Cabinet grade. It is mostly void free, just an occasional 1/8 or so crack in one layer. In the 1/4 and 1/2 I frequently find a layer of a dark soft wood that will allow the veneer to dent easily. As they say, it is o.k. for cabinets but not as good as what I want. I do expect to end up buying it mailorder. My only problem there is I have to order some first to see if what they are talking about is what I am talking about. I have seen it in the Hobby Shops in Corpus but it is in very small pieces and a 12 x 12 can run $4. That's high for a foot. I think it is that high because of the small turnover and the small amount per purchase. I don't blame them, they are trying to stay in business and some of them can't.
A seven layer in the 1/4 and 1/2 size and a nine layer in 3/4 is as good as it gets for me. Dan

[dougle40]

Hi Dan,
Yea you do have to watch what grade you buy , I don't buy anything but the top grade and surprisingly that is all my supplier carries . they told me that they did carry the lower grade but got too many complaints about voids so they only stock the high grade true Baltic Birch now . I use it for everything from scroll saw fret work to making special holders for our kite lines . Oh did I mention that I'm a kite fanatic ? I fly everything from 1 line to 2 line to 4 line kites . Great hobby , gets you outdoors every time the weather allows .

[dananne]

I need to add this thought for Bill -- I see that I am listed as a Craftsman and others are listed as Junior or Journeyman or what ever. don't know if Dean has an automatic change built into this or not but I think you get changed the more you post. Guys like me who can run off at the mouth for hours on end, we go up the ladder fast, and those that just read and never say anything, they get to stay down at the bottom. You are getting active on the posting now so you will come up the ladder also.

[dougle40]

Yea , I haven't figured that one out yet . I was at 74 posts for at least 5 different times that I posted to something here , can't figure out the posting schedule , or the ratings for that matter.

[pops-shop]

Doug, you guys have all the good stuff in Ontario. I live just outside Atlanta and it is very hard to find good plywood here. I have to get standard 1/4" Birch or Oak to get good looking plywood - and STILL have to look out for voids.

Another thing you guys have that are larger than ours - your state bird (the mosquitoe), eh?

laughing :) :p :eek:

fred

[William Young]

Hello all;
I havn't been over to this forum for a while and just popped in to say hello.
Wow , into the third page on this one topic. I was surprised to see so many of my friends from elewhere on the net are in here.. Looks like this is where it's happening lately.
I see this thread has turned into a multi topic one but thats OK. That seems to happen on a lot on forums.
I am one of the Flying Dutchman blades users because I have tried many different brands and for me the FD's are simply the best :D . I have been using them for over three years now with great success.
W.Y.

[pops-shop]

Mr. Young

What is it about the Flying Dutchman blades that keeps you coming back to them? Is it the fit between the size of the blade and the wood you are using?

I seem to use different manufacturers depending on the type of wood and thickness. Is this just me or are some others of you finding this to be true.

[William Young]

Fred.
About the only explanation I can offer there is that I have tried many others and some are thicker and some are thinner in the same size ranges which I found a little confusing but the best part I like about FD's is they are sharper and last longer than than any other brand I have tried. They are also priced very reasonanbly and there is no postage or handling charge and the service from Mike is top notch. Reasons like that make for a happy customer. I have gone through gross after gross of FD blades and the quality has been very consistant whereas with some makes you may get a few in a dozen that are not of the same quality as the rest in the same package.
Hope that explanation helps.
If in doubt, just order some F Ds and I'll bet you're hooked just like many others are.
W.Y.

[Oldjoat]

Hi Bill,
Nice to see you found your way back to this forum. It's been a long time since I talked with you. I have had some health problems but I am feeling better now. Just got my new Delta 14" band saw up and running. Now I want to try some of those bandsaw boxes you have been doing. Don't fret about your high skills I won't take that away from you. My fire place still likes it when I go sawing. :D

[dougle40]

Seems to be a lot of you out there who like the FD blades , right now mr preference is still the Crown Tooth blades , but I reserve the right to change after I get the samples that Mike has shipped to me . As I see it the major difference is that the Crown Tooth blades cut on both strokes with every tooth where as the FD blades have a reverse tooth every 3rd tooth , I've got an open mind and will give them a good test , I've got a really intricate piece to cut out and that will tell the tale .
Doug:) :D

[dougle40]

Hey Bill,
I just got my Feb.-March issue of Canadian Woodworking Magazine and it has a good article on a freestyle box using the bandsaw and the scrollsaw .
Doug

[William Young]

Thanks Doug. I'll check it out.
W.Y.

[dananne]

Here I go again. We have a good discussion going on Fd blades, and more than two of us are trying them out for the first time, I got mine in today but haven't tried them yet. However, seems like bandsaws keep popping up in this thread, so I will bring that subject to fron and center. What brand or seller or source of bandsaw blades is the best???? The last two I bought, $16. each plus shipping. 1/8 inch. I cut at about a 10 to 15 degree angle with the saw. By that I mean that I have to send the kerf off at a large angle to the left to maintain a straight cut. The angle is fairly consistant regardles of the thickness of the wood. I always blame this on the blade, one side cleaner than the other. Burrs. Whatever. I don't like it but I don't know of a cure. My 1/2 inch cuts almost straight. Just a slight drift to the left. Can I hear some comments on this????

Thanks guys -- Dan

[William Young]

Oldjoat (Bill)
Glad you're feeling better.
Congrats on the Ddelta bandasw. You are going to love making those bandsaw boxes. There is a bit of a learning curve to them . It sure wouldnt be hard to beat the quality of mine so far. I have a long way to go before I get them down as nice as I have seen some others. The fun is in making them regardless what level of perfection we achieve in our attempts.
Good luck .
W.Y.
http://www.picturetrail.com/willyswoodcrafting

[pops-shop]

Dan

I have one of those "off brand" saws (Ryobi 9") and the only place I can find blades is at Sears ! ! ! !

As far as drift is concerned, every time I use my bandsaw, I have to do a test cut on the material and then set up my fence to match the drift. Then, and only then, can I be assured of a "straight" cut.

Just an observance and not meant to sway opinions.

peace

[dougle40]

Hi All ,
Well I recieved the sample blades (Flying Dutchman) and I tried them out . While they are a very nice blade I still think that the "Crown Tooth" blades are a better blade . The FD blades have a tooth that cuts on the upstroke every 3 teeth whereas the CT blades cut up EVERY tooth , this also makes them completely reversable , making 1 dozen turn into 2 dozen for very little more . You can't reverse the FD blades otherwise you would have most of the cutting done on the upstroke making it difficult to hold the piece down. Someone had mentioned before that they found that the CT blades became weaker when they were reversed , personally I think that person is trying to get too much out of the first side and that weakens the blade . As I mentioned before , I can count the number of blades I have broken on the fingers of my hand, and most of the breaks come from stupid mistakes , like forgetting to reset the tension before I start to cut .
For those of you out there who use and swear by the "Flying Dutchman" blades , I'm not trying to change your minds , I'm just giving you my personal opinion .
Thanks to Mike for sending me the samples , I do appreciate it .
Doug.

[pops-shop]

Hawk scrollsaws were present at last week's WOOD show here in Atlanta. Very few folks were around the demo area - WHY???

I have heard that Hawk is one of the best. What's up?????

fred

[Dachshund]

I've been to a couple of wood shows and found that the area around the RBI booth was a "circus". The presentation was akin to a sideshow (reminded me of a ginsu knife infomercial). I called Hawk and told them about what I saw, and that MANY people were turning away from the presentation because of it. I had gone to the show ESPECIALLY to see the Hawk, but told them I probably would not buy one based on the show. The saw is still one of the best in the world, but I won't buy incase the company is anything like the circus. Maybe the word has gotten out about the show.

[pops-shop]

Dachshund

Maybe you have hit on something. Yes, the Wood show WAS a 45 ring circus. I'm glad I went on Friday instead of Saturday.

fred

[MustangMom]

Just to throw in another 2 cents worth, the Hawk folks were at the Arizona wood show and did a very nice demo, even letting me play with it. There were about half a dozen people standing around, but no circus atmosphere. In fact they did such a good job I came home with a barely used demo RBI 220 model for a great price and I am just so enjoying the smoothness and precision of this saw...Whoopeee!

[pops-shop]

MustangMom

Good going - maybe I should go to the last day of the show instead of the first day.

fred

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I will say this again because I think I mentioned this before on this post but this has gotten to 4 pages long and I don't remember. I own the Hawk 220 & 226. I think they are the best saws out there I know they are a little pricey but they are well worth it. My opinion. You can't go wrong with an RBI HAWK. JTTHECLOCKMAN

[ndtroll]

I agree with The Clock Man. The RBI is a great saw. I have an older one. But the saw I use the most is one of my Dewalt 788's.
ndtroll
The Scroll Troll from The Troll's Den
www.thetrollsden.com

[ndtroll]

My point of view on the best blade to use. I have used the Crown Tooth blades and had good success with them . I have started using the Flying Dutchman blades and I like them also. But my favorite blades to use, the ones I use for detail cuts are the #2 and #2/0 reverse tooth blades. I seem to have the best results with them.
ndtroll
The Scroll Troll from The Troll's Den
www.thetrollsden.com

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

The flying Dutchman blades are some of the best blades on the market today. I too use the reverse tooth blades and for the price you can't beat it. they stay sharp longer and the thing I really like about them is the consistancy you get from one blade to the next. I used to get frustrated when changing blades after they got dull and taking one from the same dozen and either it has a different set on the teeth or sometimes even a different size mixed in. I will not change blades again, that is for sure and I have tried a lot of different blades. JTTHECLOCKMAN

[pops-shop]

John

Agreed - I have way too many little bags of 4 or 5 blades where I bought a dozen, got frustrated after using half of them and never used the rest.

Fred

[William Young]

ndtroll and J.T.
Do you fellas both have a scrollsawing business where you are sawing all day every day on one saw and a hired person is using the other one? . I hear so often that some people have several scrollsaws of a particular make or even some of different makes.
Dewalt seems to be the one that I know many people have a couple of and some that I know of are just hobby scrollers like myself. I know in some cases it is to have a spare when one breaks down . In other cases it was when Lowes was flogging the DeWalts out at $199.00 and some bought their spare one at that time whether they needed it right then or not.
But I hear of some that I know for sure are just hobby scrollers and have a combination of several medium to (so called) top line scrollsaws and I can't help but wonder why.
When my previous saw wore out I got rid of it because I have a very small shop and it was just taking up valuable space.
This is just something that has been arousing my curiosity for some time and recently I have seen more and more people talking about their several saws on the different forums .
There has to be a logical explanation for this . Hopefully you fellas and some other multiple saw owners that are hobby scrollsawers like myself can enlighten me on this.
Best regards.
W.Y.

[ndtroll]

William
The reason I have a number of scroll saws: My first saw that I decided to buy, to see if I liked scrolling was a Black and Decker. Did a geat job when I was learning the craft and developing my technique, so to speak. I then bought a Craftsman Professional series on a close-out sale. The saw worked fine, but the blade changing is not real easy and it does have some vibration. I read alot about the DeWalt 788 saws and decided to try one when it was on sale. I have on my large router table so when I stand it is the right hight for me. I bought an older RBI Hawk off the internet. It is belt driven and I need to go through the saw and fine tune it. The other DeWalt I bought: a gentleman had barely used it and was selling the DeWalt with stand and light and all his patterns for a bit over $200.00. I go back and forth between the DeWalts. One I can stand and saw comfortably and the other I can sit at and saw comfortably. I average 2-3 hours of sawing a day most of the time. My shop is in my basement. In the summer (when its above freezing in northern North Dakota), I'll move one of the saws to the garage and saw outside in good weather. Hence the saga of my saw collection. Until next time

[William Young]

Thanks for that response Dave. It appears that you are somewhat of a collector of scrollsaws and have the room to do it.
That would sure be handy to have different ones set up at different heights for variouss operations etc.
Hopefully a few others will offer their own personal reasons of having multiple saws.
W.Y..

[dananne]

William
I am a "one scrollsaw" person, but I am a multidrill, multisand, and most like multi on other tools. My reasons are simply I like to have a tool set up for specific jobs if I do those job rather frequently. I have two Makita 3/8 drills, one with a drive bit in it at all times, the other ready for a twist drill bit of the size needed. I have used a lot of drive screws in the last few years. These also were purchases of opportunity. I one case the price was right, in the other case the price was nonexistant. (free) Can't go wrong like that. Just wait, one of these days lady luck will tempt you and you will end up being a multi tool owner. (P.S. I also have an 18 volt and 12 volt battery drills, a 6 volt battery drill, and a 3 volt Skill driver. Each is a different tool but can do very similar work.)

[William Young]

Dan;
I understand what you are saying there about the smaller hand held power tools . I have multiples of some of those also.
My question was mainly about major more or less stationary tools as in I have one table saw, one drill press , one scrollsaw etc. My scrollsaw costs over $800.00 in Cdn funds and it does everything I could ask of a scrollsaw so I only need one of those major tools. Of course I have a real shortage of room also with 14" bandsaw, 16 speed drill press, 20" scrollsaw. jointer, planer , 6x48x9"belt/disc sander , 2 HP DC, etc. etc. to say nothing of my smaller tools and that is all in a little 13" x 19" shop.
Shucks , sometimes I have to go outside just to change my mind:p
W.Y.

[dananne]

William,
That isn't a small shop, mine is only 12 x 20, that's seven feet smaller than yours. Toolwise, we are not so far apart. Substitute my woodlathe, 36", for your DC. However, I do have a shade tree, and a paved slab 10 x 16 that helps when I need to work on something bigger than a pen-pencil set. Somewhere on this site is a picture of my shop and yard. If the major "use" tool in one's shop is the scroll saw, having more than one can reduce blade changes, operators position, and most likely gives some peace of mind that if one goes, there is still one to go. Those of us that use the scroll saw as a adjunt to other work most likely will get by on one and spend any loose change on other tools.
Lately, the most used tool for me has been the 14 inch bandsaw. If I had another, it would reduce the time needed to change blades down a lot. I go back and forth between a 1/2 and a 1/8 in for most of my cutting. It takes some planning ahead to have the right size on the saw and I am not good at that anymore. Hi.

[Steve Rogers]

Hi All,
My shop is only 8x12 and that I have to share with 2 saddles, horse blankets, saddle pads, halters, bridles and stuff.
I've read some of you saying things about setting up your scrollsaw, tension and things. I got my Delta 20in variable speed saw from my brother without a manual or instruction book. I don't have a clue as to if the saw has been set up or not or how one would do it. I'd ask my brother but he's in a better place now.
Thanks
Steve

[pops-shop]

Steve

I found a place where you will be able to download the manual for your Delta saw. Go to:

http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=928

and click on the saw you have. On the next page you will see a place where you can follow a link to the manual.

Good luck - hohpe this helps.

fred

[WoodmanPlus]

Since I'm here and have enjoyed reading about multipal saws, I guess I will insert my 2 cents wort I started out with a $125.00 Sears about 20 years ago. It was grey and vibrated clean off the table. Even bolted to a welding table it still vibrated real good. It worked fine for, at that time I was doing yard decorations. It stayed in storage for about 6 years and I bought an old house to redue. I got the saw out of storage and by then i was into some not so fancy scrolling. i found right off that the saw was not going to do what I wanted.

I went to Harbor Frieght and bought the $80.00 saw. I have made many, many projects with it. That is the saw that I 99% finished the Dome Clock with. The only problem that I have is the blade holders are worn out and I am having a real problem getting them. About 6 months ago I bought the Delta Pro 20 that I had had a chace to try and love it to death.
I saw every day for 1 to three hrs. It helps get my arthritus shoulders and arms going. I love it parcialy due to the tilt of the whole saw. It is very comfortable for me.

Sorry about the ramballing.
Woodmanplus:rolleyes:

[misterz]

I was fortunate enough to buy a used Hawk 220 for half the price of a new one. The 20 inch throat is nice for larger projects and the sawing action is very smooth. And the saw is not very loud at al which is nice (some of the saws I looked at sound like jack hammers). I need to find a better "dust blower" attachment though -- the plain plastic tubing is not very adjustable.

[bhewitt]

Hi Oldtimer.

I've been scrolling for about 30 years and never get tired of it. In fact, scrolled work accounts for about 65% of the business I do at fairs.

I have literally worn out a Delta C arm and a Sears, used a Hegner for a while and liked it but it was too small (my fault, not Hegner's!) and junked a RBI Hawk which I hated. I'm now using an Eclipse, hand made by an engineer named Ernie Mellon in Virginia and find it to be almost the perfect scrollsaw.

If you have any questions or need any help, give a holler!

[mamabear]

I just want to tell you gentlemen how much I enjoyed reading the post in this thread. I have a Dremel Scroll Saw that I purchased 3 or 4 years ago and I just do scrolling on a part time basis. I do other woodwork besides. I also wanted to give a thumbs up to Mike and the Flying Dutchman blades. They are great blades and Mike is a great guy. I still do use some Olson blades on occasion too. I try to keep several kinds of blades on hand and sometimes try different blades on different projects and woods just to see which I prefer to use on my project. Just wanted to say hello and let you know I appreciate the calmness on this forum. mamabear

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Misterz, you have one of the finer scrollsaws on the market in my opinion. Rbi sells an addon kit that replaces the air hose on your saw to a multi jointed hose so you can face it any direction. I own two Hawks and have put this on both and it works great. You can blow the dust away from you instead of towards you as the case with the old stlye. If I remember it was around $20.

[WoodmanPlus]

Good evening all I just got to read this thread and would just like to add. I have used a lot of different blades and I know that every one has thier prefferences. I have not found the blade that I can call my favorite as of yet. I did have one that I like that I get from Roberts studio's in Th, Thats Judy Gale Roberts place. This last gross of # 5's that I got the reverse tooth have lsft me looking again. I can usually get three small clocks from one blade and then have blade left to cut some small items out of Hard Surface material. The blades I got this time ,I have had to use 3 and 4 blades to one project. I e-mailed them and they offered to replace any new ones that I had ,but I told them I could use them on non fret projects.
I can get the FD blades but it is 100 miles round trip for me. They seemed pretty good but were 2.25Per doz. That and driving so far makes them a little high.

On a related subject: When i have a good batch of blades, I can get two uses from one blade. I am bad about figuring out how to get the most use out of anything. I make my own sanders and have a shop full of jigs. My best tool is made out of plexiglass.

I use plexiglas on top of all ky cutting tools (or bottoms). I have a slide on ,made of two layers of Plexiglas with 1/2" scraps glued in between. I have dowel pins on thje back that I can just slip this gizmo onto my scroll saw table. I have two flush mounted dowel oins on the front with rubberbands around the dowels and hooks made out of copper wire, that hook over the front of the saw table. I can slid this attatchment on with or with out a blade in the machine.

This allows me to use the bottom half of the blade and when it gets a little dull I just slid this gizmo on the saw andthat raises the work up to where I have sharp teeth.

[William Young]

Hi WoodmanPlus;
You dont have to drive 100 miles to get those good Flying Dutchman blades. I live over a thousand miles from Mike Moorlach and he never charges anyone for any shipping or handling. I order a gross or two at a time and I get them here in the mail in about three days. They are the best blades that I have ever used and I use them exclusively for everything I make.
W.Y.
http://www.picturetrail.com/willyswoodcrafting

[uhmnl]

Hi WoodmanPlus,
I sent you an email hope I hear from you.

Mike M

[dananne]

Hi Woodman Plus-
Your experience with blades sounds like others and mine. I have tried Mike's blades and I like them. Good quality. Check his site on the net, www.mikesworkshop.com. He is as close as your mail box, answers email right off, has a very small mark-up, and is a swell guy to do business with. He uses what he sells.

Dan

[Servcman]

Being a truly junior member here (only been scrollsawing for about 8 months now) I found out the hard way you get what you pay for. Originally I bought a Ryobi 16" from home depot they as discontinued for $79.00. Big mistake the rigid blade holders were unforgiving if the blade was misaligned verticly front to back and the gap would only tighten down to .013" lost alot of #2 blades that way with too much feed pressure. I then went to a Sears Craftsman 16" and am happy with it. The only fault so far is the red plastic insert to facilitate blade changes it is lower then the rest of the table and offers a challenge to cut 1/8" stock if the articles are too small to cover the whole piece. I am at this time working on an idea with a friend who is a machinist on making a steel insert to replace it with. If it works out okay we are going to try to adapt them for other brands with the same type inserts. Any ideas if these would sell?

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

It is unfortunate we all learn the hard way sometimes. What you described is the biggest reason people give up on this very relaxing and addictive hobby. They become so frustrated with the equipment they give up. Now if they would spend a little more money to get a better saw they might just catch on. That is another thing this site and others like it provide insight to things like this because we learn from others misfortunes. It doesn't sound nice but it is well intentioned. Now as far as your invention I think it will come under the heading of "fix for my saw". Unless you can sell it to Sears there will not be many calls for it. If people are using that saw I am sure they ran into the same problem and probably worked it out. Might be something you can write Sears about. That is called a zero clearance insert and there are replacements out there and most people do either two things put a 1/4" auxilary table top on or use a wood filler.Well glad to hear you found a saw you like and I hope you make lots of sawdust with it. Looking forward to seeing some projects from the shop.

[Servcman]

I understand about the replacements parts being available from the OEM and other sources, however all that I seen were plastic. The insert started out flush with the rest of the table and then wore down. More then likely from too much downward pressure on my part. I was thinking of steel as to make a one time replacement and not have to replace more then once til I cure myself of this habit. I have a picture of the RBI Hawk haging above a coffee can that I put pocket change and a few dollars her and ther into, saving for it. With the oldest heading for college next year and 3 more following shortly after that my toys will have to wait. I figure by the time they finish college I'll have plenty of time to hone my sklls for the better equipment.

[dananne]

I would like to add a thought to the table insert that is not of the proper thickness. That is common with many of the less expensive tools. My bandsaw had a very poor insert. I found a scrap of aluminum that was almost the proper thickness. Cut it out on my scroll saw and used some card stock to increase the thickness just a bit and am happy with it. I selected alum. because it will not break the blade in all cases. My cheap table saw has a steel insert that is almost a 1/16 below the table top. Causes lots of reaching over the blade. Guard and all. Will work on for that as soon as I find the right material. Would use wood except the support under the insert is not big enough to make me feel good about it. May just make a larger hole for the insert, the top is aluminum. The chance of supplying custom inserts to a buying public is small. Most do like I have done and make their own. Some just give up and take on another hobby. However, the world is always looking for a better mouse trap, so if you have something special, give it a try... Dan

[Airbrushed]

I also use a 1/4 inch plate as a bed. I got cheap with the mounting of it though -

I use the holes that are on the original surface to line up and use roll pins that I pressed into the 1/4 bed. Then, I simple line up the pins with the holes in the saw - and fits right in.

Gee - it sounds so much better in my head than trying to explain it. Ok - I'll shut up and go saw some more.

[BJBCLOCKS]

I hvea Excaliber 30 saw and the blades tha I use moost are the reverse cut blades Nos.2,5 and 0/2 . I purchase them fro Wildwoods.