scrollsaw advice needed

[dogman]

:) can someone please tell me why when I am sawing on a project and as a newbie to scrollsawing I use the hold down, but my project still jump off the saw table sometimes. Also can you tell me what is the best way to make turns without getting off the pattern lines.
Thank You
Dogman :) :)

[Deanna]

Well Dogman, I am not sure if I am the one to be making any suggestions, but since my saw is in the shop... I am needing something to do :)

Make sure that the points on the blade are pointing down, if you get it mixed up, it will be more likely to jump of the table. Another thought is that the thickness of the wood seems to make a difference, at least to me. The thicker the wood, the more likely it is to jump so therefore I have to put a bit more pressure on the project.

With regard to keeping on the lines, I find that if I cut to the corner, and then pull the wood back just a bit, I can make much nicer corners.

I am sure that someone more experinced will give you a better insight, but as Pops says, that's my two cents worth!

Deanna

[pops-shop]

Hey Dogman

Typical problem in scrolling. So many factors in causing a board to jump. It still happens to me as well. Here's my list:

Hone the back edge of your blades to remove any burs that might happen to be there.
Remember that all blades are not created equal. One side will seem "sharper" than the other so turns will be tighter on one direction.
Thickness of wood - thinner wood will get away from you quicker than thick wood so you have to keep better control of movement with thinner wood.
Speed of blade - the faster the blade, the easier it is to get away from you.
Type of blade - the higher the number, the more aggressive the blade, hence the easier it is to get away from you.

Below is a drawing I made that might help.
To cut square corners, from your starter hole, go into the corner, back your blade out and come into the corner from the other side. This is the way I do it most of the time. With a sharp blade and a little practice you won't even have marks on the straight lines.
To cut severe angles, from your starter hole go into the corner, back your blade out and turn the project 180 degrees with the teeth toward the waste, back the blade down to the corner and rather slowly (without burning) turn your project to the new direction - clean corner.

Since Deanna used my "standard" tag line - That's my humble opinion and I'm sticking with it.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Fred

I am impressed with your drawing. What program did you use to do that. I often wish I could do that because like they say a picture is worth a thousand words and for me it is worth 2000.

All good advice and Deanna sumed it up. It is a mistake we have made and inserted the blade upside down so do not be embarrassed if this was the case. Some people have a little trouble when they are starting out if they use reverse tooth blades to help with the fuzzies on the bottom. Sometimes that 2or 3 teth catch the wood on the up stroke and scare you. You might want to try learning to scroll without that hold down foot because it does get in the way especially when making turns. Learn to control the wood with firm but not white knuckle pressure push down on wood. You will get to know how the wood reacts and will be able to do this with finger pressure and shifting pressure to different fingers as you spin the wood. One other thing that will cause the wood to jump is that a tooth gets hung up on the grain of the wood. So if using grainy wood you will get this more. You need to let the blade clear the wood before you make you turns so the backing off a little is a good practice. You will find cutting corners and circles is easier one way than the other and peole get into habbits to plan for this. After awhile though you learn to handle them both ways wih ease. Fred brought up a little trick that can be helpful and that is to file the back edge of the blade to knock off the corners so they glide smoother. I use these diamond files. You only have to do the lower half that contacts wood. http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/DIAMOND_HONE___STONE.html Another thing that can cause catches is thickness of wood and if there is bending of the blade it is possible to catch a tooth when turning. Good luck and practice is the keyword here.

[pops-shop]

John - I use Paint Shop Pro - best shareware paint program around.

[JoeScroller]

I think Fred covered all the right things, but I feel that another good thing to do after honing the back of the blade would be put some blade wax on the back of the blade, this can give you faster, burn-free cuts.(at least it does for me) As for following lines while making turns, I was told to slow the speed down some and to take it careful, If you get off track, GRADUALLY go back to the line, this makes it look like thats how the pattern was supposed to look. Consider going off the lines customizing the pattern, only you know if its a mistake or not. :)

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Joescroller

You snuck in on us and did not get a chance to welcome you to the site. So Welcome and I see you have already begun what we encourage all to do when they join and that is jump right in. We are a friendly bunch here and always willing to share knowledge and ideas. We all can always learn things and this is as good a place as any. Check out the site and go to the galleries and if you get some time we would like to see what you like to work on. Happy to have you aboard. :)

[JoeScroller]

Thanks, I hav'nt made much right now seeing as I just started after christmas and am a full-time high school student. I have ordered a clock pattern(mill clock) and plan to work on it for a while. I've made some silhouettes which I am going to paint black. I may post a finished picture of one of them.
I have read four different books and feel I have a fairly decent knowledge of what I am doing although any suggestions on how to improve my knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
:D

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Joe

I think I answered this in another topic but when you start the mill clock if any questions come up feel free to ask and the people here will help you along. Good luck with it. That is a challenging pattern but very doable.

[K&MScrollworks]

Dogman, I see several folks gave nothing but outstanding tips and I am going to try some of them too. Until now I have not honed the back of my blades or put wax on them but I assure you I will try both.
One thing I may add is----do not force your wood into the blade, let the blade do the CUTTING.

Kris

[copperpenny]

great suggestions in regards to scroll sawing. I have been using "Door Ease" which is the wax type substance you use to keep door hinges working smoothly. Is sold in hardware stores. I find when I use this on the blade it melts when the blade heats up and does not harm the wood or the finish when applied.

Yours in scrolling, Lynn